good cateress newsletter August 2008

August is the perfect time for messing about in water and in particular on boats.

School would come to a close at the end of July, ahead of us lay 7 weeks of holiday. Half a century earlier and we would have spent that time harvesting, preserving for the winter months. But in our good fortune we were teenagers in the 70’s, no war, a certain amount of prosperity, safety and freedom.

For those who do not know, I am writing about the Folly Inn, where I grew up, on the River Medina, which is up the river from Cowes on the Isle of Wight. The Isle of Wight is/was known as the Sunshine Island, because it always gets record amounts of sunshine in comparison to the rest of the British Isles. We rarely got heat in the 90’s but were grateful for 80 degrees. I can definitely say I would have been happy for 80 degrees while I was there in July; it was a case of true English summer when I had to buy a sweat shirt, as I was so cold.

One of my favourite boats was Pam and Allan Cundall’s, ‘Rene Phillippe’. In the summer she was moored out in the river, winters she was tied alongside the jetty. Any invitation to go onboard was eagerly awaited and accepted. Pam and Allan ran sailing holidays; guests would come to stay for a week or two, for sailing and wonderful hospitality, particularly Pam’s cooking; and Allan’s teaching. Depending on the weather, usually one of the days during their stay, Allan would take the ‘Rene’ out, down the river and into the Solent.

It would invariably be a clear, bright day with a slight breeze. Cowes and the River Medina were so much quieter back in the 70’s, it is hard to imagine it now. There were no Marina’s, and the town had hardly changed since the war. Cowes week was busy, the Royal Yacht Brittania would be moored out in Cowes Roads, along with various other Navy ‘guard ships’ including, France, Holland and of course a Royal Navy ship or two. We would motor out past them all, the Solent would be full of racing dinghy’s and yachts; then you could actually see the water between boats! Once we were clear of the harbour we would head West towards Newtown, Yarmouth and the Needles.

Around lunch time Allan would moor off Hurst Castle, one of Henry VIII forts, built on a long shingle spit out from the New Forest. In the distance, we could see the Needles and its lighthouse. Lunch was here, served on deck as we gently bobbed up and down, the sun shining brightly. Pam always the most intrepid of cooks, happy to experiment with new ideas and ingredients. And it was always delicious! Usually something warm; a delicious quiche or lamb chops in a garlicky tomato sauce, cheese and breadcrumbs on top and baked, served with local salads. ( In England in the 70’s it was all local as there were few other choices.) Followed by a wonderful dessert or cake, or both! Some of the guests would go ashore to walk around the castle; Philip (Pam and Allan’s younger son), Simon and I would stay onboard, helping to clear up. Casting a line or two overboard to see if there were any mackerel to be caught; for mum to turn into Soused Mackerel.

Friday night, the end of Cowes Week, Firework night. For the Isle of Wight the biggest firework display of the year. I had always thought it was pretty good until I moved to New York and experienced Macys 4th July extravaganza. Mum and Dad would usually arrange for Simon and I to go out on someone’s boat to watch the fireworks. Sadly, it would be friends rather than family everyone else had to work; which would mean good behaviour, no complaining. We would leave the Folly around 5pm so that we would have a good viewing spot in the harbor.

However, the fireworks did not start till 9.30 and later, so we would be sitting on a boat in the cool of an English summer. The adults would all be drinking, we were offered drinks but there was no joy in that. To start with we would look at the growing mass of people standing in Cowes Front, chuckling at them because we had the better view. By 8.30, I was cold and miserable, now I was looking at the people onshore with envy, at least they could leave if they were bored. Finally, the fireworks would begin, and they were fun, there was a tradition too it, we all waited for the umbrella fireworks that we could all count too. But was it worth the wait in the cold? A couple of years ago, I went with Simon and his family, watching the fireworks from shore. It was quite lovely, but freezing. England does not have the climate for outdoor evening events. We want to look gorgeous, tanned, glowing from a day in the sun on a summers evening not huddled up in a sweater, windbreaker and jeans.

In 1982 a strange thing happened. The Falklands War, which was strange in and off itself as most of us barely knew where these Islands were, let alone going to war for them. Portsmouth Harbour, that was usually full of Navy ships, minesweepers, frigates, etc. was empty. All our naval vessels had sailed for the South Atlantic; Southampton was the same as the P & O cruise ships were gone too as troop transporters and hospital ships. It really felt like we were reliving another war. I took it for granted that the fleet in some degree was always in harbour, but now they were gone as no doubt had been the case for centuries.

July 1982, the war was over, the ships and troops were returning. The Canberra, one of the great old cruise ships was coming home up through the Channel and would round Bembridge point in the early morning. A group of us decided we would get up early, go out into the Solent to greet her. There were about 10 of us, all going out with Allan at the helm, Dad was there too. It was a foggy morning, one of the days when you knew the haze and fog would burn off and it would be a scorching hot day. We motored out of the river and went East to Kings Quay/Osborne Bay, the fog was slowly lifting, we listened to the shipping radio and could hear where the Canberra was. We knew that Prince Charles had been helicoptered on board and that she had rounded Bembrdge point. The water was filling up with boats of every size and kind. We were worried we would not be able to see much through the haze.

Then through the fog, we could see a large shape looming, foghorns and sirens were blaring all through the Solent in welcome. There she was, this large white ship emerging from the mist, decks lined with troops and sailors cheering. I felt as though we had stepped back in time, we were welcoming the return of our hunters and warriors back into our midst with rams horns and beating drums, we could only bow down to honour their magnificence. There is a small video of some of this on Youtube. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd_SHJ01GMs

The following Friday night a man came ashore as we opened the Folly, always a quiet time. He had moored his boat, a long way up river, far from the crowd. He stood quietly at the bar enjoying his half pint, but clearly not wanting to be seen. Dad asked him, if he was who he thought he was, Yes, the man replied, but he would ask that he kept his presence here quiet. Good army man that he was, dad saluted and agreed. Admiral Sandy Woodward who had led the British navy and troops in the Falklands, was finally having some quiet time of his own.

The sea, the sea, I know I shall return to the sea.

While staying with Sue and Graham in Mill Hill, on my recent trip, each afternoon I would return to them, eager for a slice of Sue’s fabulous Chocolate courgette (zucchini) cake. I could not believe how delicious this was, light and moist. I thought I would share the recipe with you, a fabulous use for those abundant zucchini.

Sue Searle’s Chocolate Courgette Cake


7 ozs /S.R. Flour )
1 tsp Baking Powder or ½ tsp bicarb of soda ) Sieve together.

2 ozs chopped walnuts
4ozs 1/2 cup sugar

Mix all the above together in a basin.

6 ozs dark or milk chocolate ( I used half and half, Sue uses Cadburys milk)
Melt this in a basin over a pan of boiling water.

Add this to the dry ingredients together with:

8 ozs grated courgette (not peeled)

Then add:

6 fl. ozs vegetable oil )
2 eggs ) Beaten together

Pour into two 7 or 8 inch sandwich tins and bake in an oven Gas Mark 4 or 180 in a new fancy electric oven. Usually takes 25 - 30 minutes.

Cool in tin for 10 minutes, then turn out onto wire rack to cool.

Fill with whipped cream or chocolate butter icing. I sieve a little icing sugar on top.

Chocolate butter icing

4 ozs butter
8ozs confectioners sugar - I use organic, it is not so sickly
1/2 cup ghirardelli chocolate powder